Cork, Ireland
Aaron
It was 4 a.m. on a cold dark Friday morning, and we were driving down the M57 towards Liverpool John Lennon airport. I had booked a great deal on flights to Cork, Ireland and didn’t really think how early we would need to set off.
Jed
I am not a morning person and I still hadn’t adjusted to England time so right when I was starting to get tired and thought I could fall asleep my alarm went off. I couldn’t believe I was up at 4 a.m. It was cold, dark and early...this was a combination of my least favorite things. I was, on the other hand, excited to visit a new country, and Ireland was definitely on my list of places to see. In college I danced with the Folk Dance team and I had taken an Irish Dance class. I still had a decent leap-two-three in my back pocket and could probably do a basic hard shoe step if I had to. So, I have learned of some of the lore and tales of the Emerald Isle.
While checking in at the airport, we showed our passports, and Aaron was no problem, but I was asked to go knocking on doors to find someone who would check my passport and add a stamp to my ticket. I guess not many Americans without residency in the UK fly from a small English Airport to an even smaller Irish Airport at four in the morning.
I needed extra security checks and a stamp on my ticket. I was told that when landing in Cork there would be no border control as we would be flying within the European Union, so the checks needed to be done here.
Aaron
Going through security was great—we made it through in record time, since there was hardly anyone else there. I have learned when going through security at an airport that you just go with the flow and things happen a lot more quickly.
Both very much ready for breakfast, I introduced Jed to the English Breakfast at one of the airport restaurants. We made sure we kept an eye on the screens for our gate number to show up, because once the gate is called you never have much to time to get there with the budget airlines. They certainly get you on and off the plane very quickly, all the while making sure that your hand luggage is not too big nor too heavy on the way through.
We were also lucky to sit together as we did not pay extra to book a seat. After we settled in, we took off on our first flight together across the Irish sea on the very short 45 min flight. It was just starting to get light as we landed at Cork airport. The plane came to a stop at the end of the runway then turned around and headed back down the same runway to the terminal.
Jed
At the airport Aaron introduces me to what he called a Full English breakfast. It seemed like any American breakfast ordered by someone who couldn’t decide what they wanted so ordered everything other than pancakes. All except that Aaron kept calling the ham bacon and then there was that black thing. I was told no one under the age of 60 eats the black thing.
I was tired when I got off that very early flight that Aaron had booked for us, Again as we disembarked the plane EU citizens went to the left while I was the only one guided to the right. They had to wake someone up to come ask me three questions and place an extra large stamp in my passport.
After leaving the airport the first thing I noticed was it was so cold! Not like a Utah cold...this was a new kind of cold. I wasn’t prepared for this at all. And if England wasn’t rainy enough Ireland seemed even more so.
Since we were staying with friends on the outskirts of Cork, a taxi was the best way to get there. We did not hire a car this time. We thought we would do this trip on foot and try out the Irish public transport. This would be an opportunity to ride a double decker bus again.
Aaron
This was my first time in Ireland. Sometimes the closer you are to something the less likely you are to go and visit. Jed was surprised I had not been over before, being so close. I was excited for us to travel to a new land together, being the first time for the both of us.
After settling in, we headed out walking down the N22 towards town, stopping off at the University College Cork to have a walk around the campus. Our friend was attending there at the time and wanted to show us round some of the Tudor Gothic buildings.
Cork is set on an island in the River Lee. The University campus is on the south side of the river. Heading out of campus we crossed the smaller part of the river into Cork. We then walked a short distance north, until we reached the larger, wider side of the river. Crossing a bridge there, we followed a path along its banks, until we reached the city centre.
We started with the symbol of the city, walking up lots of stairways and small streets to get to the hilltop. This is where the 18th Century Shandon Church stands above the city. This is officially the Church of Saint Anne with the Shandon Bells and Tower.
The tower is definitely the main landmark of the city. The north and east side of the tower are covered in red sandstone, while the south and west sides are built with white ashlar limestone. We were told that the colours are to represent the sporting colours of Cork. This gives a different perspective of the tower depending on where you are looking at it from in the city.
Right at the very top of the spire is a weathervane in the shape of a 4 meter long fish. The fish is a Salmon and symbolises the Salmon fishing industry in Cork. The fish weathervane is known locally as ‘de goldie fish’ and is painted in gold leaf.
Entering the main Chapel, the first feature we noticed was the detailed stained glass windows. They were beautifully crafted and full of colour as the light poured through them. We looked up and saw the Victorian timber barrel vaulted ceiling. When walking around churches and cathedrals it is so important to take the time to look up—sometimes there is just as much to see up there as in other areas of the building.
On the first floor you get to do something that you are not usually allowed to do in a church. You get the unique opportunity to play the bells. This was a great novelty experience and we were both excited to try it out. We stood and watched someone before us have a go, and they did a great job. Then it was our turn. There is a book on a music stand to the left of the ropes. The book contains a variety of songs you can play. The songs are made up of 8 notes. Each bell rope is marked with a number and you go from there.
This is a lot harder than it looks. We both picked a song we knew well, but to keep to the tune you have to pull the ropes fast and hard to keep up. It was really great fun to try it, and just the thought of ringing the big bells 36 meters above your head was memorable.
Our thoughts did go out to the local residents who live close by the church, who have to listen to constant failed attempts of ‘When the Saints Go Marching In’ from dawn till dusk.
We continued on, now with the tunes going around in our heads. We were each given a set of headphones and told to wear them when we got to the top of the tower. The 132 steps we climbed to the top are built into the 7 ft thick walls that make up the tower. You climb up through the clock mechanisms and then into the belfry.
This is where you really need those headphones, as you literally get within less than a metre of the actual bells. They are very loud but absolutely amazing to hear and feel them so close. Looking closely you can see inscriptions on the bells:
‘When us you ring we’ll sweetly sing’
‘Since generosity has opened our mouths our tongues shall sing aloud its praise’
From the very top of the tower, we went outside and enjoyed 360 degree views across the city. It was a very cold and drizzly day, but you can’t beat going up a tower and taking in a great view. It is the best way to see the whole of Cork.
Jed
In the evening our friends took us to a pub where we had a ginger ale and listened to some Irish music. They had some dancers for the tourist Beni fit but they were legit. I couldn’t resist when they asked for volunteers from the audience to get up and dance real Irish dance in Ireland. I’m sure this was the part of the show that helped the audience realize what they were doing was actually much more difficult than they were making it look and I had no problem helping them prove that point since it had now been about 36 hours since I had slept.
After exploring Cork for the day, we decided to venture out of the city by bus. A small town called Kinsale was recommended to us.
Next Stop Kinsale...
Aaron
It was 4 a.m. on a cold dark Friday morning, and we were driving down the M57 towards Liverpool John Lennon airport. I had booked a great deal on flights to Cork, Ireland and didn’t really think how early we would need to set off.
Jed
I am not a morning person and I still hadn’t adjusted to England time so right when I was starting to get tired and thought I could fall asleep my alarm went off. I couldn’t believe I was up at 4 a.m. It was cold, dark and early...this was a combination of my least favorite things. I was, on the other hand, excited to visit a new country, and Ireland was definitely on my list of places to see. In college I danced with the Folk Dance team and I had taken an Irish Dance class. I still had a decent leap-two-three in my back pocket and could probably do a basic hard shoe step if I had to. So, I have learned of some of the lore and tales of the Emerald Isle.
While checking in at the airport, we showed our passports, and Aaron was no problem, but I was asked to go knocking on doors to find someone who would check my passport and add a stamp to my ticket. I guess not many Americans without residency in the UK fly from a small English Airport to an even smaller Irish Airport at four in the morning.
I needed extra security checks and a stamp on my ticket. I was told that when landing in Cork there would be no border control as we would be flying within the European Union, so the checks needed to be done here.
Aaron
Going through security was great—we made it through in record time, since there was hardly anyone else there. I have learned when going through security at an airport that you just go with the flow and things happen a lot more quickly.
Both very much ready for breakfast, I introduced Jed to the English Breakfast at one of the airport restaurants. We made sure we kept an eye on the screens for our gate number to show up, because once the gate is called you never have much to time to get there with the budget airlines. They certainly get you on and off the plane very quickly, all the while making sure that your hand luggage is not too big nor too heavy on the way through.
We were also lucky to sit together as we did not pay extra to book a seat. After we settled in, we took off on our first flight together across the Irish sea on the very short 45 min flight. It was just starting to get light as we landed at Cork airport. The plane came to a stop at the end of the runway then turned around and headed back down the same runway to the terminal.
Jed
At the airport Aaron introduces me to what he called a Full English breakfast. It seemed like any American breakfast ordered by someone who couldn’t decide what they wanted so ordered everything other than pancakes. All except that Aaron kept calling the ham bacon and then there was that black thing. I was told no one under the age of 60 eats the black thing.
I was tired when I got off that very early flight that Aaron had booked for us, Again as we disembarked the plane EU citizens went to the left while I was the only one guided to the right. They had to wake someone up to come ask me three questions and place an extra large stamp in my passport.
After leaving the airport the first thing I noticed was it was so cold! Not like a Utah cold...this was a new kind of cold. I wasn’t prepared for this at all. And if England wasn’t rainy enough Ireland seemed even more so.
Since we were staying with friends on the outskirts of Cork, a taxi was the best way to get there. We did not hire a car this time. We thought we would do this trip on foot and try out the Irish public transport. This would be an opportunity to ride a double decker bus again.
Aaron
This was my first time in Ireland. Sometimes the closer you are to something the less likely you are to go and visit. Jed was surprised I had not been over before, being so close. I was excited for us to travel to a new land together, being the first time for the both of us.
After settling in, we headed out walking down the N22 towards town, stopping off at the University College Cork to have a walk around the campus. Our friend was attending there at the time and wanted to show us round some of the Tudor Gothic buildings.
Cork is set on an island in the River Lee. The University campus is on the south side of the river. Heading out of campus we crossed the smaller part of the river into Cork. We then walked a short distance north, until we reached the larger, wider side of the river. Crossing a bridge there, we followed a path along its banks, until we reached the city centre.
We started with the symbol of the city, walking up lots of stairways and small streets to get to the hilltop. This is where the 18th Century Shandon Church stands above the city. This is officially the Church of Saint Anne with the Shandon Bells and Tower.
The tower is definitely the main landmark of the city. The north and east side of the tower are covered in red sandstone, while the south and west sides are built with white ashlar limestone. We were told that the colours are to represent the sporting colours of Cork. This gives a different perspective of the tower depending on where you are looking at it from in the city.
Right at the very top of the spire is a weathervane in the shape of a 4 meter long fish. The fish is a Salmon and symbolises the Salmon fishing industry in Cork. The fish weathervane is known locally as ‘de goldie fish’ and is painted in gold leaf.
Entering the main Chapel, the first feature we noticed was the detailed stained glass windows. They were beautifully crafted and full of colour as the light poured through them. We looked up and saw the Victorian timber barrel vaulted ceiling. When walking around churches and cathedrals it is so important to take the time to look up—sometimes there is just as much to see up there as in other areas of the building.
On the first floor you get to do something that you are not usually allowed to do in a church. You get the unique opportunity to play the bells. This was a great novelty experience and we were both excited to try it out. We stood and watched someone before us have a go, and they did a great job. Then it was our turn. There is a book on a music stand to the left of the ropes. The book contains a variety of songs you can play. The songs are made up of 8 notes. Each bell rope is marked with a number and you go from there.
This is a lot harder than it looks. We both picked a song we knew well, but to keep to the tune you have to pull the ropes fast and hard to keep up. It was really great fun to try it, and just the thought of ringing the big bells 36 meters above your head was memorable.
Our thoughts did go out to the local residents who live close by the church, who have to listen to constant failed attempts of ‘When the Saints Go Marching In’ from dawn till dusk.
We continued on, now with the tunes going around in our heads. We were each given a set of headphones and told to wear them when we got to the top of the tower. The 132 steps we climbed to the top are built into the 7 ft thick walls that make up the tower. You climb up through the clock mechanisms and then into the belfry.
This is where you really need those headphones, as you literally get within less than a metre of the actual bells. They are very loud but absolutely amazing to hear and feel them so close. Looking closely you can see inscriptions on the bells:
‘When us you ring we’ll sweetly sing’
‘Since generosity has opened our mouths our tongues shall sing aloud its praise’
From the very top of the tower, we went outside and enjoyed 360 degree views across the city. It was a very cold and drizzly day, but you can’t beat going up a tower and taking in a great view. It is the best way to see the whole of Cork.
Jed
In the evening our friends took us to a pub where we had a ginger ale and listened to some Irish music. They had some dancers for the tourist Beni fit but they were legit. I couldn’t resist when they asked for volunteers from the audience to get up and dance real Irish dance in Ireland. I’m sure this was the part of the show that helped the audience realize what they were doing was actually much more difficult than they were making it look and I had no problem helping them prove that point since it had now been about 36 hours since I had slept.
After exploring Cork for the day, we decided to venture out of the city by bus. A small town called Kinsale was recommended to us.
Next Stop Kinsale...
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